Making Women's History Today

cross-posted at Feminist Mormon Housewives

Young women who live in Saudi Arabia today are increasingly being exposed to the influence of the outside world. There are those who are sheltered from television, music, and the media, but most college-aged girls now own ipods, cell phones, and jeans. Many of these young women are pursuing their education to the university level at institutions which have opened up separate and close-to-equal college programs for females. These are the girls with whom I have had the pleasure of associating during my stay here in the Kingdom. When DH accepted a job at a university in Riyadh, I was fortunate to find employment with the same institution in their women’s college as a health and physical education instructor.

When I arrived here in August, I discovered that the program was dismal. In the public schools, physical education is strictly forbidden for girls, and in the private schools the PE programs are rudimentary. At the university level, the girls attended 4 semesters of HPE. The classes consisted of one hour per week of theory (health & nutrition, first aid, anatomy, and pregnancy & childbirth) and one hour of practical exercise. I was placed over the prac courses. At the time I arrived these were one hour of aerobic exercise given to classes of 30-40 girls in a small dance studio--without music. There I was, jumping up and down, trying to get these beautiful veiled princesses to put on pants, move around during their periods, and elevate the heart rate with no space and no beat other than me singing out, “1-2-3-4!” The first month I was there, I attempted to get approval for music with no success. I then focused my efforts on facilities.

I learned from the girls themselves that it was counterproductive to fight against the local culture. I must work within the system if I wanted to see change. In particular, our student body president is a young woman who believes that Arabic women can accomplish much within the limitations that are imposed. She began to work toward the possibility of a women’s basketball team. Our HPE faculty began to point out to our supervisors how much better the facilities were at other colleges. We were lagging behind those schools which had full gymnasiums for their women’s programs! Soon, we were given the use of 2 outdoor basketball courts formerly used by the men’s side. We had to wait until the courts were completely walled in so that the girls could not be seen while exercising. These courts were finished in January, and we quickly added basketball, volleyball, badminton and soccer to our program. The first day that we went out on the courts, one of the girls confessed to me that she had never in her life exercised out of doors.

Some of the young women at our university had received education in the US, in other countries, or in private schools, and were excited about the changes. Early in February, I read that the Arab News had published an article about the first-ever women’s football (soccer) match in Saudi Arabia. It was held Jan. 22, 2008 in Dammam between Prince Muhammad ibn Fahd University and the Al-Yamamah Women’s College of Riyadh. Though the match was open to women spectators only, the team members broke social expectations that women must be lady-like and demure at all times. I knew the time was right for our basketball team.

I am not a basketball coach, nor do I have much experience with the game. In my Nike Air Max I barely stand five feet tall. But our student body president collected more than 150 names of girls interested in coming out for our team. Someone had to step up. I am thankful that I live in the day of the internet so I was able to go online for rules, training techniques, fun drills and other aspects of coaching basketball. For weeks now, I’ve been dribbling a ball around and practicing my shooting so I won’t be too embarrassed in front of the girls. And I can now report that in this Women’s History Month of 2008 I am a little part of making history in this area of the world as our girls start their practices! We plan to compete with Al-Yamamah later in the semester. The interior design department is hard at work designing outfits for our team in which we will be able to move, yet which fit the stringent standards for women’s wear. Our games won’t be filmed by camera crews, and the spectators will be only a few of the mothers and sisters who wish us well. But to me, this semester in Riyadh has been as important as walking on the moon. One small step for womankind.

Ramadan

Most of the Muslim world started the observation of Ramadan on September 13 this year. I've discovered that during the month of Ramadan celebrations, life changes drastically here in Riyadh. Everyone is fasting (or at least pretending to fast) during the daylight hours from sunrise to sunset. So whenever they can, they sleep or take it easy during the day. When the sun goes down, they break their fast with water and some dates, then go to prayer. After that, the city comes alive. Many families have big meals or parties. Stores are open until 1 or 2 am and the streets are crowded with shoppers. There are Ramadan sales in every shop.

My students have been coming to school exhausted, and seem surprised that we are having class. Here in the HPE department, we don't do strenuous exercise during these weeks of fasting, but continue to hold classes for continuity's sake. We have 3 weeks of school and then a 2-week vacation coming up. Ramadan is early this year, and since school just started, it makes it difficult. We'll do more theory than practical PE, with emphasis on nutrition.

This week was also the University's faculty party. My husband was sent the following email:

Invitation to a Ramadan Dinner
PSU would like to invite all faculty to a Ramadan dinner on
Tuesday the 25th of September at 9.30pm
The evening’s entertainment will include: competitions, cultural activities and sports activities, the highlight of which is a game of football between a faculty and a student team. Finally, a delicious dinner will be served under a full moon and a starlit sky.
We hope that you will attend and enjoy this annual PSU calendar event!
A bus will be available to pick up faculty from the DQ.

At first I was confused, because the email I got wasn't as detailed, and the date was different. I soon realized that there was a men's party and a separate women's party. I teased DH that it wouldn't be as romantic under the moon and stars without the women!

So Monday night we had our party. I must say I was less than impressed. Women faculty arrived promptly at 9:00 PM when the shuttle delivered us, dressed to the nines. Many were wearing their native costumes. There were colorful saris from India, gold-threaded embroidery on flowing robes, the traditional Saudi thawb. And the jewelry was fabulous! Tables were loaded with covered dishes containing the native Middle Eastern foods. But we were not to eat or begin the program until the arrival of the Women's Dean and Assistant Dean. We waited and waited, famished with hunger. The Westerners became worried that something might have happened to detain the Dean. But we were told not to worry, that this was common during Ramadan. A party set for 9 PM might not get started until much, much later. It was difficult to remember that customs were different, and not to construe this behavior as rude. But the Dean did not show up until 11:30. (I was hoping to go home by 11!) We had a short poetry reading by several students, the Dean welcomed us there, and then we ate. There was a tattoo parlor off to one side where we could go and get our palms or hands tattooed with henna. One of the Architecture faculty, a new arrival from Canada, got her ankle and the side of her leg tattooed. (It seems that this is a rather scandalous place to get henna'ed.) Those of us from the DQ were so tired, we left around 1:00, the soonest we could get away.

I don't know how these people do it, partying all night long, every night all month long, and going to work the next day. They are tired and fasting, and irritable. Stay off the roads! It's dangerous out there.

Wearing the Abaya

The Abaya is a full-length black robe which is worn by every woman when they appear in public in the city of Riyadh. I'll post some pictures of myself in the Abaya when I get my computer connection. It is very, very hot here, so the Abaya is a bit uncomfortable. However, I haven't had too much trouble with it. In fact, it's fun wearing the Abaya here at the University because I feel a bit like Professor McGonogall teaching the students at Hogwarts!

The difficulty comes in regards to the head covering. Abayas are sold with a matching head scarf which is worn in different ways. Conservative Muslims will cover the entire head. You'll see them trip and fall occasionally, as it is almost impossible to see while walking. Another option for conservatives is to wear a separate piece which surrounds the face and leaves slits for the eyes. Most women simply drape the scarf over their head. Westerners usually wear the scarf around the neck and are occasionally asked by the religious police (Muttawa) to cover.

I quickly picked up the unwritten do's and don'ts of the head covering. I cover while walking from the shuttle bus to the front door of the University. I cover while entering the place of Mormon meetings. But I don't cover in the grocery store or other public places. I'm getting the impression that women here would like to have a bit more freedom in being seen uncovered, and appearing in the grocery store with the head uncovered is generally acceptable.

I thought that I had the whole thing solved until my husband began reprimanding me whenever he saw that I was wearing the scarf around my neck. I asked him nicely to please butt out of telling me when to cover. But he continues to nag me. Now I feel like ripping the whole black thing off my body and wearing a bikini in public! So, why do you think I'm having such an extreme reaction? Am I afraid DH is buying into the whole subjugation of women thing? Or is it my rebellious nature reacting to the nagging?

Heavy sigh.